Wednesday, October 27, 2010

New Blog

As a fan of consistency, and continuity (watch Day for Night, I'm that girl with the clipboard filling in Trouffaut's gaps) I am not scraping this blog. Instead, the new blog is for my students. The older, more fluent in English ones.

It's a place for them to post their homework if they want, instead of handing it in, or to stick thoughts on discussions we had in class.

The first time I mentioned it (yesterday) they thought I was crazy. Didn't believe me. I came home, spent an hour putting it up, presented all the information in class and it took 5 full minutes (a lot of class time when you think about it) of convincing for them to believe it was real, and for them.

They're even a little excited!

Check it out!

EnglishatBalatina.blogspot.com

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Skimming the Haunted House

I designated today my physical labor day. Laundry, despite cold drizzle, I'm my last pair of undies, and office DIY.

Originally I thought to continue with paint stripping in preparation for painting on Friday. I don't know why it didn't occur to me to strip the desk in summer. I wish it had, would make a bushel more sense.

At ten minutes to two, I was eating and chatting with Maria, and Adriana showed up. She is always early! I told her about the paint stripping plan but she piped up with "There's a cupboard possibly in this house on the hill!"

"Whose house? What sort?"

She gave me one of her terribly long and involved and too-quick-for-my-Romanian stories. It involved lots of relatives and death. "something something something Grandma something something cousin something dead something something died something something I'm scared." for almost five minutes without pausing for breath.

We puffed up the steep church slope where kids sled in snow, little dog trailing behind, sock in his mouth. "Where did this dog come from?" I ask.

"A neighbor had two new puppies and nothing to do with them. He doesn't follow anyone else. Not even Lenuta, and she always tries to give him treats to make him come, but he only comes to me. I play with him and pet him."

"Cool."

Adriana is the first person I've met in this country who has thought to train her dog, let alone treat it nicely.

The house is a cute normal blue color, if a bit faded from not being replastered every year, with especially ornate wooden window frames. It's next door to the church in fact, prime real estate!

We un tangle the three feet of coat hanger sort of wire that's keeping the gate shut, walk past the front through some overgrown trees to the back door that's ajar. Adriana gives me a final warning of "it is dirty all over." Of course it is, I think, it hasn't been live in for a decade. I just nod "no worries."

What she meant was that we had to crawl through a hole in the foot thick wall made of mud and rush bricks. Then over various 50 year old kitchen appliances and dodge some falling bits of ceiling.

The shelf/cupboard was indeed perfect for our purposes, but two little girls (she's only an inch or two shorter than me) were not about to sprout the arm and back muscles to heft it out of the house and down the hill, around the corner, up some stairs and down the hall to my office.

We worried over it a bit until I spotted the shelves themselves were removable. huh. "are there bricks or something in here we can take also?"

"just mud ones"
"no good."
"How will we get it out?!"
"We won't, just take these! We'll make some ourselves in the office!"

Adriana looked a bit skeptical, but she went along with me on it. Next problem was exiting. The front door was nailed shut and she thought herself a bad hostess for making me crawl through the hole in the first place.

Ever quick on the draw, she jumped onto the door frame, kicked out some glass (at which I yelped like a six year old at a snapping dog) and swung through the place where the glass had just been. She tugged at the nails, but alas, to no avail.

At least now we wouldn't have to drag the boards out the back hole entry. Went back to retrieve our new furniture, covered completely with cobwebs and sawdust and half buried under ceiling. I was given a demonstration of how to be a mummy in a full sized wardrobe, and see saw on the fallen ceiling. I felt like a mischievous fawn or other creature from Shakespeare's wileyer fantasies.

A finger flung out in front of me: "My dad made that! My dad made it and now its all broken." She pointed at a half gutted tv frame, wires spurting impotently for direction. "Do you want it?" she asked. An image of a fish tank in a tv sprouted in my mind. Almost as good, a secondary shelf. Or puppet theatre!

"Yes."

We dragged it out with our boards.

Tossed em out the door window. The puppy scampered about. We were careful to miss him.

Walking down to school, spoils over our shoulders, Adriana talked about how jealous all the other kids would be if they could see her with me and such weird stuff, would she be allowed to bring the puppy to my office? She had to sing later. She wanted to sing, but with the other kids it was just so boring. Where was Elena. She's already at school, waiting to sing. Are you going to the Halloween party with the 12th graders? Could she come with me as my date, she was too young, but wanted to see it, also, she's shy.

She got her wish. Several girls from her class were hanging around and, true to form, asked what was going on, and how weird and dirty we were.

All that was left, was to set up the computer, put on the Yeah Yeah Yeahs (Adriana heard one song from It's Blitz and it's all that's allowed to play now whenever she's around. She won't let me try to introduce her to other music she might like no matter how many times I point out how much she likes this song after it took me ages to convince her to listen to it the first time) and clean.

And we scrub and unscrew and smash out the remains of the tv until they gleam and are arranged with coffee cups and flowers in the corner of the office near the window. Adriana crashes and I feed her some coffee with lots of sugar. We go home.

Good afternoon.

Friday, October 22, 2010

Extreme Multitasking

In the last three hours I have:

Finished coloring a pinup
discussed the concept of practicing things, and the integral good therein
faux roasted marshmallows
Cleaned my room
Given two guitar lessons
made videos
Introduced and explained the basic concepts of atheism
bought a pumice stone
translated all of Moulin Rouge into Romanian as it was happening.

Because Adriana and Elena's mother has flown the coop to the fields for two days, so they hang out here with me a bunch.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

English Club Part 2



For me, it's three 12th grade boys. Roma, Grigore and Sasha. They actually cut time out of their chicken feeding to hangout with me every Monday afternoon. We meet at a bar, but they don't drink alcohol. If anything they drink juice and eat what I call “crunchy things”. They love that I call them this, but there is no English translation for the fish flavored flakes of dried bread we crunch on.


I don't have to create anything. I never have to tell them how to do things the correct way. They know far more about taking care of themselves and their families than I do. We talk about girls, and university and language and culture. I see weird things, these are the people I go to. They watch a new American movie (in English) or play a new computer game (they play World of Warcraft with Americans and learn words like “moron” and whip them out at the weirdest times!), they ask me about it.


Yesterday we compared violence in movies. They have never heard of A Clockwork Orange or Full Metal Jacket and were sincerely disturbed when I described what they were about. They asked why I would ever let that into my life. They like movies like King Kong and Star Trek. Sasha is a particular fan of the Step Up trilogy. Grigore even thought Chicago was pretty cool.


They don't even tell me these things because I'm a girl. Last week they told me of a new system of code they'd developed. The key word is “sheep”. They call people they don't find intelligent or capable sheep. They call girls who do nothing but preen. They call boys who do nothing but drink and smoke sheep. I asked:


“Am I a sheep?”

“No! Of course not! We can talk to you like a normal human!”

“Are your girlfriends sheep?” (Roma's girlfriend and I are pretty good chums)

“No, we would not date them if they were.”


A boon of post communism is a weird sort of feminism, I guess for a lack of better terminology. Even though there are very specific Man Roles and Woman Roles in the home and in the town, this does not, somehow, mean they think women are dumber or anything. They just know that, in the words of one Volunteer Isaac Lutz “Girls just can't play sports as well!” And it has nothing to do with conversationalism or the ability to do math or play with computers.


They don't go easy on me because I'm their teacher. I defined the word “peer” for them (no equivalent apparently) and they thought I was their peer, but my partner Natalia was not. In class they are extremely vocal. To the point of exasperation. They speak so well that today's lessons on exhaustive suffixes was way beneath them. They were bursting with examples and other students didn't have a chance to speak. At first, of course I just say “yep! Good one” then “cool, let someone else have a go. Lumilla give me a word” and they start in on Ludmilla's hesitation (she's a notorious sheep) I have to forcibly tell them to shut up. When I say “shut up” though, they listen. So, I'm not a teacher, and not a peer. Its comfy and doesn't interfere with work. They certainly don't shield me from weird or bad or offensive things.


But these boys of the country, with yearnings to travel the world (Roma: America only. America all the way. Grigore: Egypt, Germany and America. Sasha: Manchester England and America) are sincerely gentle and considerate people.


I wonder if they have to be, all the raising of animals. Do you grow a deeper appreciation helpless things when you are dependent upon raising and treating them well?


Tuesday, October 19, 2010

English Club Part 1


Secondary projects are worrisome. Joining up, confused, thinking only of Africa, I though “Wells!” and “ditches!” I'll help dig things! What else can I dig? School foundations. Dykes. My brain fizzled with hot days breaking my back to bring the easiest symbol of civilzation to tribesman using sticks.


American's thinking of themselves as gods dolling out gifts of better life That better life simply being something more like their own life. Disney pointed this out succinctly in the much criticized masterpiece of color and music and child-level criticism of society: Pocahontas.


Ask any educated person you like and 8 times out of 10 they put this down as a work of baseless historical misinformation. They tend to be malicious.


My point is not that Pocahontas was a sex kitten in leather who seduced a Mel Gibsonish John Smith and saved the world from war, cus obviously those are exagerations at the kindest. The point is this strip of dialogue:


P: Ee tomaway, mata ha way.

J: I'm John Smith.

Magic Wind: Listen with your heart...

P: My name is Pocahontas


cut to their subsequent conversation →


J: We'll show you how to use this land. Make the most of it!

P: “Make the most of it?”

J: We'll buid roads and decent houses!

P: Our houses are fine!


Other things Disney does not include: the insane cannibalism that happened in those better house John Smith was talking about when the inhabitants of Jamestown ignored the teachings of Powhatan's people.


I came to Moldova and found snug houses, well painted and adequately heated. Some with running water. The only things that needed digging, I was not allowed to dig – girl. And I was teaching. Teachers are revered community members. They're supported by the communities so as not to have to do so many menial things. Of course here in the backwoods, there's little choice but to grow corn (thanks Pocahontas) and chickens, but they are never sunburned, and they certainly aren't expected to take their turn to shepherd the cows all day.


Training for this sort of thing didn't exist. What did exist was pressurized seminars and panels of older volunteers about secondary activities. We don't have chickens I guess, so we must instead, tend clubs. Almost every volunteer has at least one club they mind, with students or adults or who ever is interested.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Vladya

I started tutoring again this month. Filled my schedule immediately with lessons, as many as I could fit without going nuts, which comes to 12 hours a week.

I love tutoring. All the benefits of teaching with none of the drawbacks. Magic, really. If anyone has a person willing to pay me to tutor, I will be happy all the rest of my days.

A particular surprise has appeared in the guise of a red-headed 8 year old girl. She is my neighbor. Even by Moldovan village standards, she hails from a family of hicks. Imagine boondock Arkansas holler inhabitants. We met one day on the road after 7 months of my being here. She and her brother were barely dressed and covered head to toe in dirt. The took turns bumping a pram back and forth through mudpuddles. They had their smallest sibling in there.

I said "hi" they got curious and abandoned lil bro/sis. They spoke to me in thicker than thick village accents I barely understood. The girl, Vladya she introduced herself, picked up a used syringe out of one of the mud puddles, waved it around telling me what it was and promptly stabbed her finger with it. Horrified by all sorts of things, I tried talking and/or snatching it away from her but she moved too quick and tossed it to her brother who started running around with it.

Because she now had a puncture wound on her middle finger, Vladya cast around herself for a kiddie tournequette. She found a muddy candy wrapper. It was that super flexible tinfoil stuff that Japanese presents always come wrapped in.

Thus scarred, I've made a point of always talking to them. Tried talking with their mom, but if she's out of the house she's deep in gossip with someone. Vladya is the spitting image of her mother like no genetic copy I've seen anywhere else.

Her father I've seen once driving the family horse around.

So, I didn't even advertise my tutoring this year. People just started showing up to my office and I had to make a schedule damn quick.

Vladya was one such case, came in with two girls two grades above her who had been taking English with me for a year already. Within the two lessons we've had, Vladya can already speak, read and write better than them. She found herself a cast off text book and showed me how she's doing all the exercises on her own at home. I asked, she has no one in her family or whom she knows who speaks English.

She asked if she could sit with me all afternoon, practice. Sure. I have other lessons, you'll have to stay here at the desk and be quiet. Ok. Ok.

True to her word, she simply sat, translated stuff with her pirated textbook and listened in on whatever I was teaching the other kids.

Today, she decided she was done with English and asked if she could do her math homework. Sure.

Sums, obviously. However, she was only doing them asa:

54 + 73 = or 100 - 48 =

I asked about this structure:

54
+ 73

And she'd been taught, but didn't get it, besides, it's more frumos to do it all in one line like that.

Ok, well, do you want me to teach you this way? I think it is easier...

Ok.

It should be known that teaching math in a foreign language is crazy. And also, teaching English through teaching Math is equally crazy, but really, really productive and a highly effective way of using the language.

IE. it was a teaching goldmine.

Then I taught her how to use my iPod and she nearly died of happiness.

Otherwise, all my lessons (8 of them) today were a total frustrating waste of everyone's time.


Tuesday, October 12, 2010

100 Posts, No way.

It's taken me three years to get here, and that is sad. Hopefully I can keep up this pace and the next 100 won't be grossly belated.

And to celebrate: a description of joy.

Showers. Showers my be an act of joy incarnate. Hot water on bare skin in a small warm room has its own sensual attributes, obviously, but the cleaning part should not be discounted. I never took cleaning seriously in America/England/Australia. I'd never before washed and then, while drying, seen rolls of dead skins flay off, pull out literal handfuls of hair from my hair.

Before I thought of showers as a reprieve from reality where I literally would sit under the water and dream up Thor knows what words of intrigue and sparkles.

And I took it all for granted...

I just showered for the first time in a week, and the joy I felt cannot be described. I'd even prepared with two towels: one for hair and one for corpul. The soba in the bathroom was even warm and I put my towels on it, and they warmed up.... oooooo deliciousness.

I will invest in a very well equipped bathroom when I own a house, hopefully with a small sauna.

Monday, October 11, 2010

Things Moldovans Do So Right - 1

Cheese.

Brinza is homemade white cheese. Pretty simply the leftover stuff when you boil milk at a correct temperature etc.

Then hang it outside to solidify further. It drips whey for a day, what you have afterwards is usually crumbly and tasty with all sorts of things.

If it's cold, the texture changes to a more mozzerella sort of thing.

Maria made some that is like Mozzerella on the outside and Philadelphia Cream Cheese on the inside. It is divine. Be jealous.

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Wine Fest and the Worst Winter Ever

Several reports on the grapevine dictate this will be the worst winter on record for ages and ages.

I'm inclined to believe them since I'm already wearing long underwear full time, and we're not quite half through October. Maybe it'll swing back, and I hope so, I need to shower and I'm developing an upper respiratory infection.

For these reasons I had banned myself from going to Wine Fest this past weekend altogether.

Besides, I've seen my friends get drunk en masse many a time, it's not entertaining or fun for me. And Obama told us not to gather in big public groups, which, really, seems like a good idea to me even if there aren't random, obscure terrorist threats floating around (aren't they always...what a lame duck warning).

But it had to be done. The keys to our apartment were with a person there, and I wanted to go to sleep. Trek we did to a dark and sleet filled Wine Fest.

Thank Thor for Marlene, Alex and Erin, who forced me to enjoy myself for the 30 minutes I was there. Meeting creepy frenchmen, drinking free wine, eating free grapes. Yes, my party pooper attitude was coaxed to fun.

Meeting with the group was less inebriated an affair than anticipated also. Just to the huggy phase, not the fall over phase! woot! Who likes hugs? Erika likes hugs!

And we got our keys, bought cheese and noodles and made weird melty mac n cheeze and watched The Empire Strikes Back in Russian. Who likes Star Wars in Russian? Erika likes Star Wars in Russian!

So, Badass Winter a comin'? You wanna snow and ice on my parade? It appears I'll prevail whether I want to or not! Ha!

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

phew!

Whoa, a whole eventful week and no blogs to show for it!

Being as wonderful and eventful as it was, I am exhausted. And must get dressed for school. Therefore, a short overview:

Thursday
0800: Bus --> Chisinau
1600: Train --> Bucharesti
Friday
0530: Disembark train, drink coffee eat NON-breakfast menu at McDonalds, only thing open.
0700: Meet some Portugese dudes, walk around, find hostel, check in.
0800: Walk around. Find many cool things.
1000: Stuff starts opening, drink coffee. Make friends with bartenders.
1200: Random guided tour of the National Library (Romanian "Library of Congress" thing)
1330: Lunch. Make friends with Irish restaurant owner.
1500: Walk around.
1900: Dinner.
2030: Make friends with Christian Missionaries in our hostel.
Saturday
0700: Up. Pack.
0900: Leave hostel.
1000: Exam
1330: Finish, talk to Foreign Service Officer proctors.
1430: Walk around.
2130: Train Bucharesti --> Chisinau
Sunday
1030: Off train, shelf books in PC HQ library.
1540: Bus Chisinau --> Balatina
1945: unpack...
2100: Fall asleep without eating... Maria upset
Monday
0800: Teach... Fiasco with Teacher's Day masa where Renata and Natalia are not invited and I have to crash the party with them as my dates in order to go. It's complicated politics with the director and the person replacing her, my partners are the arbitrary grunts who take the flack.
1300: Party. I must drink R and N's vodka for them...
1500: Club with Grigore and Roma
1730: Leave club, go home and wonder what I have to do in the real world...
Tuesday
0800: Teach... Cover N's classes, she has left to prepare for the 2nd round of Teacher's Day ceremonies in Glodeni
1300: Without lunch, R and I take the private rutiera to Glodeni to watch N present stuff.
1700: Sufficiently bored and hungry we duck out and convince the mayor it's time to go. After all, R is now an hour late to pick up her daughter from Kindergarten.
2030: Start falling asleep. Maria doesn't let me this time: Veronica my host sister is here.

Today I must teach for 6 breakless hours (secret to being done at 1330 is to not stop working ever) then tutor for 3 breakless hours and then maybe I'll collapse as is becoming the pattern.

Thank Thor there are not two-day holidays of festivities every week. I'd be trashed, bored out of my mind AND not doing any work every week. Really, this school system is so devout to wasting teachers' time (and it's not just with fun things like this, it's usually paperwork that goes nowhere) it's no wonder to me they can't grasp progress.

Is this a post-soviet thing? A new government thing? A Claudia-specific thing?

On the other hand, I think I did alright on the FSOT. But we'll see if that makes any difference in a month... Speaking of lengthy processes...